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Tips & Mods - Bodywork

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Undertray Fitting
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Nose Job

New Nose! - (GSX0801/024 - Gnome)

Well you knew it was coming didn't you.... It is off a new Fazer 600, trimmed the side 'tails' off had it sprayed up, made the
mounting brackets did a little bit of careful re-wiring and hey presto.......

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SEM Back End Rebuild

New Bum - (GSX0801/024 - Gnome)

R1 carbon fibre tail unit cut down to fit, after market undertray with sunken lights, seat off a TL 1000, paint is standard Suzuki pearl with extra lacquer.....

The original subframe was cut off just behind the shocks, and a new alloy one made to fit. What made me do it ? simple the devil.....seriously, after a couple of meets and seeing 4 -5 14's lined up together with the usual bolt on goodies I had a choice, either sell the bike and buy something different, or change it in such a way that it still looks like a 14, yet is quite obviously different, and as I have really fallen for this big Suzuki, the later was the only obvious choice.

All praise goes to Martin and Alan at South Essex Motorcycles who took over from Tufty the 'I cant do it, it's to difficult' (thanks for that...Muppet) and actually gave me what I had asked for originally. CHEERS GUYS. As for the cost, well both Martin and Alan have said they will do another if asked, but not for less than £2000 and definitely not without having the bike for at least 3-4 weeks, when you take into account the price of just the bits (£1400), you would have to agree that that is actually quite a fair price.
 

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Undertray Fitting (GSX0701/010 - JT)

Right chaps - not having received any fitting instructions - here's how I did it....

1) Remove seat and disconnect rear light and indicators.

2) Remove grab rail (2# allen bolts each)

3) Remove side panels (1# small allen key and pull - gently)

4) Remove tail unit (4# neat 'push pin' jobbies i.e. push the centres in with something small enough then pull out with fingers & 2# Phillips screws towards the front of the tail unit). You will also have to unscrew the 2# Phillips bolts securing the seat lock device, but the seat lock and the cable that goes with it comes off very neatly in one with no need to start disconnecting anything.

5) Fag break and Budweiser refreshment.

6) Remove the cover over the battery (just pulls out). Unplug and remove the ECU unit. Unscrew & remove the battery (Piece of P*#s)

7) Now the next bit is a bit tricky, and better if you have small hands but now you are ready to remove the whole of the storage compartment. There are 2# 10mm (i think - maybe 12mm) Hex Head bolts, which fasten from beneath the storage compartment, up into the frame - look carefully and you will find them. The one adjacent to the chain is easier to remove than the one on the off-side - but remove them you must. There are also a couple of fixings at the back end (I think) in the bit that you are about to chop off.

8) Fag break and Budweiser refreshment.

9) Now out with the hacksaw/coping saw/Stanley knife/jig saw etc. You can see from the photos which bit needs cutting off, particularly the shot i have tried to take from above. As you can see, i could have left a bit more of the high compartment sides, but c'est la vie. I might even trim them down a bit more so that they don't look so 'unfinished.

10) At this stage you can spin the storage compartment upside down and put the undertray onto it to check the fit, and you will find that the fit is spot on ! Even the small return flaps (steady vicar!) just behind where the rear shock will be - check photo.

11) Now its time to fit the storage compartment back into place (forget the undertray for now as all the previous stuff was just so you could cut the back end down without too much difficulty and to avoid danger of cutting/scratching something that you shouldn't do). The more adventurous members may be confident enough to just drop the back end of the storage compartment down (without fully removing it) to do the cutting, but remember I've already sunk 2# buds!

12) Connect the storage compartment at its base with the 2# bolts you removed in number 7 above. Offer the undertray up to the underside of the storage compartment, and while your mate/girlfriend/neighbour or passer by holds the undertray in place, re-fit the tail unit and the grab rail (finger tight will do for now). Fitting the tail unit keeps the undertray in place.

13) You will now see that the 4# 'push pin' jobbies go through the original holes in the tail unit, directly into the holes of the undertray - so stick em in and push those pins!

14) Fag break and Budweiser refreshment.

15) Now tighten the tail unit fixings above both the rear shocks and tighten the bolts holding the grab rail on. - Oh yes - fix the seat lock device back into position.

16) Now it's time to install the final fixing (the one you have to drill!). This really isn't a problem but measure three times and drill once as you don't want to get it off centre. You drill the hole from just above the battery housing. There is a good shot of this on the photos. Get your mate/girlfriend/neighbour or passer by again to press the undertray up from underneath while you drill the hole from above. (Watch your fingers - 3# buds by now!). Drill very very quietly, as you know how quick a metal drill bit goes through plastic. The size of the hole very much depends upon which fixing you intend using. I used 5.5mm and opted for a fancy little fixing supplied by Honda - very similar to the push pin jobbies on the back of your tail unit, but one that pushes in
then screws into place. One of the plastic nut & bolts that Powerbronze supply will do perfectly well, but I had one of the 'trick fixings' spare so bugger the expense. A white one would have been better, and I may choose to change it later.

17) Now put your battery back in, and the ECU jobby and re-fit the battery cover (just pushes into place)

18) Wiring the lights - I hate wiring but this was simple. Buy a block connector with 6# ports each side. Chop the plug off the original light unit (I know - but you're not going to use it again are you?) Chop the ends off the new light unit wires. Fix the 6# new wires into the block, fit the 6# original wires from the plug into the corresponding holes (Grey = Red Black= The original wire with the most black on it and the other is the other!) Plug the plug back in - turn the ignition & light on, and stand back to admire the handy work whilst gently caressing your bits - ok maybe I'm getting carried away, but it does look very sexy. Those more 'electrically adept' members of the group will probably have a better/neater way of doing this, but this way worked fine for me.

I think that's about everything, although i may have missed a couple of the finer details - oh yes, somewhere along the way you need to disconnect the back brake lever light, but this is just a pull off/push back job.

I intend to seal off the gap between the original storage compartment and the new undertray and this can be easily done with some duck tape. You don't have to do this as nothing will get in, it just tidies the job up.

I hope the above will be of use to all those about to embark on an undertray mission, and I personally think that the finished result is the mutts nuts. 

I have chosen to do without the indicators as I have always found hand signals to be the more recognisable way of letting some prat know which way you are going, and at least this way I can't leave them on. Others may choose to hand craft some nice stainless jobbies rather than the crap that Powerbronze are actually sending out. Either way I will only need to fit the indicators again when it's MOT time, and I will be hopefully riding the K4 or K5 (or K2 nitrous turbo) by then.



Photo 2418 shows where to drill the extra hole, viewed from the inside before putting the battery cover back. Photo 2422 shows the extra hole from the out side. (Drill from the inside out!). Photo 2420 shows view from above in an attempt to show what line to cut the storage unit.

Happy spannering - JT

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Ermax Parts

Blue Screen, Wheelcover & Bellypan (GSX0801/031 - Marcus Wijnings)

Spotted on the same site as the pics from Dave Laverick are these pics of a bellypan and a close up of the blue screen. UK importers are:

On Two Wheels Distribution LTD
Garngoch Industrial Estate
Gorseinon
Swansea
Wales
SA4 1GZ
Tel: 01792 224466
www.ermax.fr vbm@caverdale.co.uk

NB: The Suzuki GSX1400 Owners Club has not dealt with this company and does not in any way endorse it or its products. Caveat Emptor!

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